Geamos

Geamos is like that family member who always ends up being the host. Because they’re the ones in the nice neighbourhood (leafy St. John’s Wood), and always serve the good wine (qvevri, history lessons on request) and food that’s fit for group feasting (cheese-stuffed khachapuri shampurze). At this welcoming Georgian restaurant, owner Zaza, usually found smiling or laughing, offers up honey cake and tea, and fiddles with the music when there’s a lull in conversation. Everyone is made to feel like extended family members in this cheerful dining room. Each table is decorated with a lurji supra—a traditional blue tablecloth found in most Georgian homes—which, along with felt ornaments and bottles of adjika, are for sale at the front of the restaurant. Dishes are comforting and tasty, particularly a must-order slow-cooked pork knuckle dish, which made us feel like the favourite child as it was paraded through envious diners towards us.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Food Rundown

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Khachapuri Shampurze

A cylinder of bread stuffed with stretchy sulguni cheese and cooked over hot coals until it’s crisp and, in our experience, as hot as lava. What’s not to like? It’s golden, warm bread and mild cheese, which won’t blow you away, but it does hit all the right cosy, carby notes.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Elarji Balls

These cornmeal balls seem relatively straightforward, but everything is done perfectly—the deep-fried coating is thin and the cheesy cornmeal centre is somehow still light. We also like the creamy walnut sauce for dipping.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Sokos Kuchmachi

The hit of chilli here is welcome, but the mushrooms are a little dry and overall this sautéed vegetable number is a bit of a forgettable dish.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Kanchi

Suitable for banquets and Tudor feasts, but also just Tuesday nights when you can’t be bothered with the dishes. This slow-cooked pork knuckle is fantastic. Served on a big, circular, wooden board, it’s a hulking adjika-smeared piece of smoky, fall-apart meat. There are little bowls of crispy baby potatoes, pickled vegetables, and dipping sauces surrounding it. And it’s well worth the 30-minute wait that’s indicated on the menu.