LDNReview

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

The full Irish breakfast on a table at Inis overlooking the canal
8.6

Best New Restaurants

2024

Inis

Inis is an all-day spot you'll actually want to spend all day in

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IrishBritish

Hackney Wick

$$$$Perfect For:BreakfastBrunchCasual DinnersCoffee & A Light BiteDinner with the ParentsLunch

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After finishing a full Irish breakfast at Inis, we couldn’t bear the thought of missing out on lunch so stuck around. By the time we ordered Guinness cake, boxed up half a pork schnitzel sandwich, and joined a staff debate about cutlery, we knew it was time to pry ourselves away, but it was a struggle. Luckily for us Inis is open in the evening too. The all-day, British-Irish spot has a pretty location, right by the towpath in Fish Island. Big, picture windows frame the canal and on a sunny day, taking your pint and house-glazed, thick-cut ham outside is the move. 

You can feel confident coming at any time of day. In the morning, when green juice and iced lattes are delivered by staff who will happily get involved in a deep and meaningful about sausages, or just flash the kind of smile that would turn around a bad day. Or in the evening, when candlelight twinkles and bounces off the water, perfectly cooked bavette and moody lighting make everyone feel sexy, and staff remember your first name and whole backstory by a third visit. Because trust us, you’ll be back often.

Food Rundown

The full Irish at Inis

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Full Irish

A plate we think about often. Each element is perfect—from fatty, thick bacon to peppery white pudding, and a nutty soda bread. If it wasn’t for the threat of gout and bankruptcy, we’d eat breakfast here all the time.

Garlic Bread

The bright green garlic butter is brushed onto the bread, and it tastes as strong as it looks. This is one for proper garlic fiends and people who find themselves complaining about the lack of garlic on most garlic breads.
The Sunday roast at Inis

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Sunday Roast

Like the full Irish, each element of the Sunday roast is perfect. The meat—pork or beef—is tender, the pork crackling is airy and looks like some kind of wind-inspired sculpture, and the cheesy leeks come with a ridiculously tasty, toasted soda breadcrumbs topping.
bavette with red wine sauce from Inis.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Bavette With Red Sauce, Hand Cut Chips

Looks away Heinz, we have a new favourite red sauce. It’s so delicious—meaty, slightly sweet, drinkable—that we’ve insisted on pouring it into a takeaway container with our leftover steak to take home. The steak is a pick-me, glistening pink, and the chips are McDonald’s-thin but oh-so-crispy.
The grilled mushrooms with goats curd buttered soldier from Inis.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Grilled Mushrooms, Goats Curd, Buttered Soldiers

An inch and a half-thick and cut into an oblong slab, this buttery soldier is less of a finger and more of an adult forearm. The mushrooms, still with a bit of bite, go well with the tangy cheese. It makes for a very satisfying start to a meal here.
The prawn cocktail with Irish brown butter bread from Inis.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Prawn Cocktail, Irish Brown Bread

Mammys everywhere will struggle to recognise this take on a prawn cocktail. There are no prawns draped on the side of glassware for a start. These ones are plump, juicy, and dressed in a light, thin, gently spiced marie rose sauce. Limp lettuce is replaced by crisp, shredded cabbage. Did we miss the nostalgia of a tangy, sweet, overly thick sauce? Maybe just a little. This is very accomplished but didn’t give us the same warm feeling as our homemade Christmas Day version.

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Truly excellent: An 8 should be on your must-try list, because 8s are great. These spots are worth making an effort or crossing town for.

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FOOD RUNDOWN

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