Zeret Kitchen

Zeret Kitchen is inconspicuously placed on the corner of an estate, next to a newsagent. But it’s a restaurant that deserves attention. Lots of attention. Come 7pm, this buzzy Ethiopian spot in Camberwell is filled with families, couples, and friends, all of whom are artfully, and some not so artfully, sharing an enormous silver platter of injera with any number of combinations.

Once here, shoulders relax and teeth unclench. Restaurants can’t be prescribed but if they could, everyone would be dosing Zeret Kitchen. Solitary diners sit, slowly ripping at injera and scooping misir wot with one hand, while lying a book flat on the table with the other. Across the warmly lit room, groups of friends politely catch-up over the gentle piano soundtrack with a few bottles of St. George lager for company. It’s an intimate restaurant whether you’re here romantically, platonically, or on your own. And there’s something nourishing about that.

photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli

photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli

The food plays a big part too. London is blessed with a tonne of Ethiopian restaurants and Zeret Kitchen is arguably the best. The injera is baked thin and springy with just the right amount of tang, while the stews, vegan or otherwise, are superb. Shuro wot, a chickpea stew mixed with a wallop of berbere spicing, is a must. The chicken tibs, more generous in quantity and flavour than other restaurants, is also essential. Eating with your hands is a visceral (and often messy) affair and it only adds to that feeling of intimacy.

This is undoubtedly some of the most enjoyable and tasty communal eating you can do in London. The two-person Zeret Surprise is an enormous amount of food for £30 and much of the menu is ideal for a group. That said, there is a one person section of the menu as well. And, frankly, the portions are enormous for one. Which is just how we like it. But whether you’re here en masse or going solo, you’re going to settle in. The only rush at Zeret Kitchen is getting there.

Food Rundown

Kategna

This starter is slices of scored and grilled injera rubbed with a smoky and spicy homemade chilli sauce that very much creeps up on you. There’s a slight crisp and chewiness to it versus the bubbly cooking of injera, and it’s the perfect way to start your meal.

photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli

Mixed Platter

Vegan or meat, you’re going to like what’s on your UFO-sized platter at Zeret Kitchen. Standouts include the shuro and misir wot, and the latter green lentil stew is vibrating with garlic and ginger. Meatier favourites are the kitfo (raw beef mixed with a smoky spicy butter) and any wot or tibs dish, if you’re looking for some spicy respite. Remember that you can always ask for more injera. And it’s very good here.